An Art of Movement and Light
At the heart of this extraordinary piece lies a trembling flower, the central feature of the en tremblant design. Ingeniously mounted on a fine spring, the flower quivers delicately with every movement of the wearer, catching and refracting light in a play of constant sparkle.
Its centre holds a principal old-cut diamond, weighing approximately 1.90 carats, surrounded by a halo of old-cut and rose-cut diamonds that together bring the total diamond weight to around 9.10 carats. Each stone is meticulously hand-set, ensuring brilliance from every angle – a testament to the exceptional skill of the 19th-century jeweller.
The Victorians were deeply inspired by the natural world, and this brooch perfectly reflects that sentiment. The design unfurls into a foliate spray, its diamond-set leaves interspersed with luminous pearls in shades of white, pink, and cream, culminating in a graceful ribbon-tie motif. The use of silver-topped gold – with the diamonds set in silver to enhance their sparkle, and gold forming the warm understructure – was typical of fine jewels of the period, balancing beauty with practicality.
Measuring 17 centimetres in total length, the brooch combines grandeur with delicacy. Its scale, detail, and movement make it a quintessential example of Victorian naturalism – opulent yet organic, refined yet full of life.
Ingenious Versatility
A feature of particular note is the brooch’s detachable design, allowing it to be worn in multiple configurations. The full piece offers a dramatic statement for evening wear, while the upper section — featuring the tremblant flower and ribbon motif — can be worn alone for a more understated touch.
Such adaptability was a mark of the period’s finest jewels, designed for both aesthetic beauty and functional elegance. Whether pinned to a silk gown or fastened at the shoulder of an evening cape, this brooch was created to command admiration in every setting.